REVIEW
THAI NATION
Sweet Basil is the latest, greatest addition to Portland's swelling Thai scene.
by ROGER J. PORTER
243-2122 ext. 371
It is hard to imagine that less than 20 years ago Thai food was unknown in Portland, as obscure to us then as the cuisine of Cameroon now. These days it seems every neighborhood harbors a Thai restaurant. The latest entry in the Bangkok sweepstakes is a particularly appealing place, housed in the former Northeast locale of Laslow's and offering a substantial list of classics with a splendid collection of unusual dishes.
You have to be a careful reader to understand that menu, however. One rubric on the regular list is "House Specials"; a separate sheet notes "Dinner Specials"; finally, a blackboard near the entrance itemizes the "Specials of the Day." No matter--a special is a special is a special, and, to mix cultures, the categorical confusion will yield to the culinary Confucian. This blend is not entirely out of place, since a few Chinese dishes seep into the mix: a respectable wonton soup shares place with the great chicken-coconut-lemongrass soup known as tom kah gai ($7), which combines creaminess, spice and tang infused with the woodsy perfume of ginger. Loyal to its roots, Sweet Basil will appeal both to the novice Thai diner (are there any such folks still around?) and the veteran looking for new sensations.
Two obligatory dishes at the outset are maing kum and larb gai (each $8). The former is a do-it-yourself concoction, one demanding exquisite restraint, a micro-version of wrapped foods. Here a delicate stack of spinach leaves (in Thailand the green might be the betel nut's leaf) serve as envelopes for a smattering of little fillers: roasted shredded coconut, shallots, tiny lime wedges, raw peanuts, chilies and fingernail curls of dried shrimp. Less a test of the kitchen than of the presenter, this medley, perked up with a tamarind- and fish-based sauce, bursts with a variety of tastes, each able to stand on its own. This dish serves as an introduction to the rest of the meal, a pure form of what follows in more complex renderings. Larb is a pungent salad of ground meat (here chicken) tossed with mint and lemongrass in a spicy lime sauce; it's cupped into a large purple cabbage leaf and gets its crunchiness from the toasted rice powder, which also lends an aromatic quality reminiscent of roasted nuts. Sweet Basil's version is bracing and sparkling fresh.
One night the blackboard special consisted of grilled scallops and roasted portobellos showered with basil and multi-colored peppers; I have no quarrel with using local ingredients for traditional dishes, but this offering was less successful than other more authentic Thai recipes. One of the great treats at Sweet Basil is the roasted duck curry ($14) in a classic red curry paste; the bird is crisp but lusciously soft inside, and the addition of tomatoes thickens the sauce to a rich, sweet but not cloying consistency. If I were not trying to assault the entire menu, I'd gladly return to Panang seafood ($18). This ample platter of mussels, salmon, white fish and squid is bathed in a heady blend of kafir lime leaves, shrimp paste, coriander, cilantro, garlic and chilies. The name implies that the dish is Malaysian, and it's an example of the cross-cultural influences in Southeast Asia.
"Lovely Ginger" was less successful, though not at all bad: A plentiful handful of chopped ginger blasts into a stir-fry of mushrooms and beef, but the thin-sliced meat was overcooked and a tad dry. Normally I'm not a lover of fried rice, but the Thai pineapple rice ($12), studded with raisins, cashews, carrots and peas, intrigued me; it proved delicious, and a calm-down after the incendiary blaze of the curry dishes (our table insisted on heat). Another interesting dish, a plate of grilled pork in peanut sauce, arrived stacked like a triple burger with slices of soft tomato between each layer; a nice complex of flavors and textures.
Many dishes come with an order of jasmine black rice, molded into a heart shape; the bottom layer of this flower-scented rice is white, while the top is black. The latter somewhat resembles wild rice and is slightly sticky; because the grains tend to adhere to one another, the rice holds together well if you dip it into curries and other sauces. Curiously, the restaurant serves a plate of wild greens, but while it seems like an incongruously European touch, I found that blending the greens into several of the milder sauces worked beautifully and did not at all destroy their quality.
Whatever you do, eschew not the desserts--a spare but indispensable selection. The fried (really sauteed) bananas ($4.75) are pulpy-sweet and absolutely ambrosial. A trio of ice cream rounds out the limited choice--green tea, ice tea and coconut, all homemade. Bananas with any of the ice creams will make you dream of temples shimmering in the moonlight off the beaches of Takua Pa.
Sweet Basil is housed in three rooms, the first two more comfortable and pleasant than the rather utilitarian back room. Ask for the front section when you reserve. It's a homey place, with a fireplace and lots of ledges where you can put excess dishes--and there will be some, for the plates are quite large here. This family establishment could not be more friendly, and though service tends to be a bit slow (the restaurant has been mobbed of late), it's delivered with graciousness and reliable information about the cooking. All in all, Sweet Basil is a nice addition to the growing and groaning boards of Portland's Thai emporia.
